Level of Detail: Finamore Napoli

Naples has a special position among the skjortfantaster. The uncompromising craftsmanship with a penchant for hand-finished parts and narrow slit armholes has become an international seal of approval. Manolo has looked closely at the shirts from a family business started in Napoli, Finamore 1921 sewn shirts based on authentic Neapolitan skjorthantverk.

Shoulders completely according to the Neapolitan school with obvious folds of solid craftsmanship. The sleeve is sewn like yoke firmly hand which allows a narrow cut armholes and a axelnära fit with full mobility, which is a bit of a hallmark of the Neapolitan skräddarkonsten.

Ärmisättningen seen from the inside of the shirt.

A woven inserts give the collar hold, but with a supple and soft shape. Collars with glued inserts is in danger of becoming something bubbly and rarely get the same corrugated appearance. The characteristics of many of the Neapolitan skjortskräddarna is high and the often relatively broad waiver between kragsnibbarna.

Even the collar fastened by hand.

A detail that distinguishes many hand sewn Nara shirts is that the seam between the front and back of the Nara shirt is slightly offset towards the sleeve sewing line. This is a legacy from the tailor-made skjorttraditionen where the sleeve is sewn separately and then attached to the Nara shirt. The manufacturers who still cling to this detail claim this way sewing reduces the load around the armhole and strengthens the movement.

Mother of Pearl buttons sewn with a trepunktstygn ‘ zampa di gallina. All of the buttonhole are sewn by hand.

A purely aesthetic detail or detail that increases the strength of the Nara shirt. There is disagreement on tygtriangeln (in English, Butterfly Gusset) that cover the joint between the front and back of the shirt really fills a function. Regardless of opinion, it is another detail that testifies to the solid craftsmanship.

Shirt in its entirety. In Sweden sold Finamore Napoli on Gabucci (smålandsgatan, Stockholm). Price from approximately 2400 kr. Photo: Olof Enckell

Image from skjortateljén in Naples.